Rome was a grand disappointment for me. I was expecting so much and got only a little. I had built up the ancientness of this city to such great heights in my mind that it paled in comparison to my imagination. My initial impressions were not favorable in the least – dirty, foul, hot, crusty, rude, smelly, expensive…
My opinions change slightly as my time spent there increased but the feelings of dirty and rude never went away. Rome simply did not hold a candle to Paris. Like any big city I expected lots of people and a certain amount of debris, clutter, etc. I’ve been to New York, Chicago, L.A., Paris and Tokyo (the cleanest I’ve ever seen a city) but Rome was a bloody cesspool. Maybe I just was there on a bad week… ha… maybe.
As for my activities while staying in the ancient city well. Then first two days I was dead broke, so I just walked around and saw the “free” monuments and buildings. I trekked through the heat in pants, sat at the coliseum which was really cool, was unimpressed at the ancient center ruins and walked through the tomb of the unknown soldier simply to get out of the heat. This was a pleasant surprise actually as it was free and it had a lot of Italian war history all through it. Really what was the most impressive was the churches. I must have walked through 10 to 15 or so amazingly beautiful churches, basilicas, etc. while in Rome. While I was in awe of the skill of craftsmanship and artistry I was in utter disgust at the avarice of the catholic church and the need of the popes to “preserve their memory”.
While some of the most beautiful and amazing works of art -the Pieta or the Sistine chapel to mention just two – were commissioned by the popes I wonder how many people starved while the cardinals sat on gold leafed chairs awaiting their dinners or how many people went homeless because cardinals had to sleep in extreme elegance. It was a real re-affirmation to me of the horrors of organized religion and how specifically the Catholic church has used its followers for its own betterment. That being said I am a true fan of the francsican order and of all the catholics these guys are really following their beliefs… Just one of the many reasons I’m a shamanist and not a catholic.
My tour of the Vatican museum concluded with a walk in the Sistine chapel. Now they say no photography, no cameras, no flash and no talking while in the chapel. I know what your probably thinking this is Jason we are talking about here, for sure he’ll sneak a photo and chatter away… right… Hey I’m not catholic but I’m also not a rude, disrespectful ass monkey-like 80% of the other people who were in the chapel that day. I was utterly amazed at the shear audacity of the people around me – most of which I might add were NOT Americans, but Germans and Italians. Clicking away, flashes slowly destroying their own national treasure. I stood there appalled wanting to take pictures of the people taking pictures just to make some statement – instead I refrained and choose to write about it instead.
What I do not understand is how people can be so truly clueless, insensitive and utterly moronic about viewing art. I watched numerous people walk into a room holding video cameras scan the room with the camera and walk out. As if the reproduction on their camera was going to be enough to absorb the fine brush work of a mannerist painting or the subtle details of the cracks in a statues fingernails. Then there was the use of flash – are they thinking that oh one little flash couldn’t possibly hurt that painting… its not just one you dolt… but hundreds of thousands. Here the Americans were as guilty as the rest of the tourists. It infuriated me so much once I actually said something to a woman.
Jason – Um ma’am you know that your flash is destroying that painting?
Lady – Really? Oh my… I didn’t know.
Jason – Well they post signs. Do you know how to turn your flash off?
Lady (slightly embarrassed) – uh… well no not really…
Jason - here let me show you…
Then I proceeded to show her how to use her bloody camera, after which she promptly thanked me and left the room. What else was I too do? I had had it with all these camera drones and their insensate clicking and flashing. Why couldn’t they just sit and look at the art?
And then it hit me… because they didn’t know how, they didn’t understand the process, they saw it just like they saw the rest of the “stops” on their tour… just one more thing to get on the check list, just one more digital photo to put up on their blog or facebook. Just like the Mona Lisa in France. I was just as guilty – I had had an agenda as well. I had made a list, I ignored things in favor of other “better” things, I had taken tons of photos. I had forgotten to just be – to as we say enjoy the tree.
Well I vowed that the remaining 2 days I had left I was going to just be and absorb and sure enough the last two days were great. One of the high lights of Rome for me was a really amazing street artist whom painted pictures in spray paint in like 2 to 3 minutes. Her process was very impressive and while not very healthy definitely amazing to watch. I was so impressed by it that I went back the next day and bought one of her pieces to remind me to always explore process, which ironically was one of the reasons I was in Europe to begin with. How appropriate.
The last stop on my journey in Europe was to be Pompeii – and it was on my last full day of travel. I was determined to not let the speed tourist take over. I was going to live and breathe Pompeii. It turned out to be one of the most moving experiences of my life…
Here’s the photos…